If you want to learn more about tea, spend a week studying one specific variety. That’s what I’ve been doing this week with mao feng green teas, and it’s what I did in early March with ti kuan yin oolong teas. Both times, it has been rewarding to focus in one variety, sampling similar teas from different merchants. It’s a journey of small discoveries.

Today’s small discovery is this: Mao feng is not a very aromatic tea. It shares this characteristic with most Chinese green teas, but mao feng is particularly light in the nose. Mao Feng Reserve from Teas Etc, has a mildly sweet aroma hinting at chocolate or sweet corn, but you’ll barely detect it.

As with the mao feng from Oriental Tea House, this mao feng consists of long, wiry leaves twisted into thin spears. There are a few pairs, but not as many as in Life in Teacup’s mao feng.

I decided to make this mao feng in a gaiwan, with a higher leaf to water ratio and a slightly shorter steeping time. With the previous two mao fengs, I opted for a larger teapot (a 2-person pot) with about a teaspoon and a half of leaf. The teas turned out well, but they required a longer steeping of about three minutes, and couldn’t handle much more than two infusions. Using the gaiwan and more leaf has let me get three solid steepings already, and I think I’ll be able to extract a pretty good fourth steeping as well.

What struck me on first tasting this tea is how much bolder its flavour is in comparison with the previous two mao fengs I reviewed. It bursts with vegetal flavours — think green beans and bok choy. There’s a sweetness, the kind you get from stir-fried vegetables. It makes for pleasant, easy-going drinking.

Mao Feng Reserve is available from Teas Etc.

© Eric for Tea Finely Brewed, 2010. | Mao Feng Reserve from Teas Etc | 2 comments |
Post categories: Green tea, Tea reviews
Post tags: Mao Feng, Teas Etc

A while after writing that second article, I noticed a note on Teas Etc about direct trade tea. Until then, I hadn’t heard of this concept; intrigued, I asked Beth Johnston, Teas Etc’s tea purveyor, if she would mind sharing a bit more about what direct trade tea is, how it compares to fair trade, and her thoughts on fair trade tea in general. I hope you find her responses as interesting as I did!

Beth Johnston from Teas Etc

What is direct trade tea?

Direct trade is a term that refers to the sourcing and buying relationship of a supplier who works directly with the farmer or processor. While many tea sellers believe that they are going “direct”, true direct trade is not a trading company or broker which is the case in many instances.

In what ways is direct trade different from fair trade tea? How is it similar?

Direct trade is different from Fair Trade because of the transparency for us as a buyer. It allows me the peace of mind to know exactly where my tea purchasing dollars are going and that any premium I am paying (which is often the case) is going to the grower and processor not to run an organization. Conceptually they are similar in that there is a desire to pay a fair price to those responsible for the tea in our cup. I believe that direct trade is more substance over form.

Why do you believe direct trade is important?

Direct trade is important to us for a number of reasons. One important distinction is my insider knowledge of the authenticity of the tea and its origin. For example you can buy Bi Lo Chun from a variety of different growing areas in China and now even in Taiwan. True origin authentic Bi Lo Chun comes only from East West Mountain, outside of Suzhoug. So while you may be buying a Bi Lo Chun (Pi Lo Chun or Green Spring Snail) it is only going to represent a varietal that is truly authentic if it comes from the area that it originates from.

Direct trade is also about building relationships with my growers. This gives me a better overall understanding of my teas, the culture and people who produce them. It provides a sense of intimacy with my teas and positive well being knowing that we (Teas Etc) are paying a fair price for the hard work and effort that is put in to the teas we buy and sell.

Lastly, that intimacy absolutely helps me sell more tea! I would like to sit here and tell you it is all because I am a nice person but that really wouldn’t be honest. Consumers want a more global connection to the products that they purchase and as a supplier of direct trade teas it allows me to truly supply that experience. As specialty tea grows in popularity we are finding that wholesale clients are beginning to recognize the value of that direct trade relationship and are requesting more and more information and images of the teas. They want the “story” and that gives us a competitive edge.

Should tea drinkers sacrifice quality in favor of fair trade?

I wouldn’t sacrifice quality in the cup for Fair Trade or any other certification on the label! Just because a tea does not carry the FT logo does not mean that it is produced under deplorable circumstances. I have traveled extensively and I have yet to see any indication of slavery or the exploitation of children in relationship to the production of tea.

The other part of the story that is often overlooked is how opinionated we are about how other people live around the world. Just because we (the US and other developed nations) believe that circumstances should be changed in a way that fits our lifestyle or ideals we fail to recognize that people may be quite content with the way they live despite our thoughts or lack of understanding. They are likely to be happy to have a job and given the choice may not wish to live the way we do.

I believe that while the intentions are good and may have been born out of kindness it is unconsciously a bit arrogant. Our way is not necessarily the right way.

What does 2010 hold in store for Teas Etc?

2010 is going to be an exciting year for Teas Etc. We have some new products on the horizon that I am personally very enthusiastic about and frankly are long overdue! While I had hoped to be announcing many of these in the beginning of the 2nd quarter we need a bit more research and development to get things right before launching. I wish I could reveal more but at this point that would be premature.

I can tell you that our new Tea Traveler, due out the last week of April, is 100% BPA free, has a newly designed finer mesh to accommodate even the smallest cut leaf and will be available in 3 new designs. This remains our number 1 selling accessory and we believe these changes will make it even more popular.

***

Thank you Beth for taking the time to share about direct trade tea and your perspective on fair trade.

On a final note, I wanted to mention an article I read earlier today on the T Ching blog: Behind the curtain of tea wholesale. I think it exposes some of the major flaws with tea businesses that don’t source their tea directly, but instead just order from wholesalers in the US (and often without trying the tea first). It further shows just how valuable direct trade can be in providing consumers with tea that is of a higher quality, while also offering greater benefits for the growers themselves.

© Eric for Tea Finely Brewed, 2010. | Direct Trade Tea: Interview with Beth Johnston from Teas Etc | One comment |
Post categories: Fair Trade tea, Interviews
Post tags: Beth Johnston, direct trade, fair trade, Teas Etc

Just a few weeks after reviewing Chicago Tea Garden’s Golden Bi Lo, I turn to Teas Etc’s Bi Lo Chun Reserve, a delightful green tea with a remarkable nose.

Bi Lo Chun is a specialty of tea makers in Jiangsu Province, China. This particular sample from Teas Etc (a free sample, by the way) features lovely white downy leaves, indicating that the leaves were harvested at a young age.

Teas Etc’s notes on this tea suggest that the aroma is “unassuming”, while Mary Lou and Robert Heiss describe Bi Lo Chun’s aroma as “deceptively soft and mild”, yet I find that this tea has a remarkable dry aroma of rich dark chocolate. It’s one of the most enjoyable aspects of drinking this tea.

Given the sweetness of the dry aroma, it’s surprising how little sweetness there is to the flavour. This is a very savoury tea, with strong notes of vegetal flavours and a milder hint of something like sweet potato or yam. There is a little bit of astringent bite to the tea, but it’s nicely balanced (provided you don’t oversteep it).

The Story of Tea describes Bi Lo Chun as the Darjeeling of green teas — they have that briskness and demanding character of Darjeeling teas, but they’re well worth the effort. I’m inclined to agree. You need to take special care not to oversteep this tea, or its astringency will make it nasty, but if you’re careful enough it’s a rewarding, unique and delicate tea.

Bi Lo Chun is available from Teas Etc.

© Eric for Tea Finely Brewed, 2010. | Bi Lo Chun Reserve from Teas Etc | No comment |
Post categories: Green tea, Tea reviews
Post tags: Bi Lo Chun, Pi Lo Chun, Teas Etc

What does it take to be a championship-winning tea?

That was the main question I had in mind this morning as I enjoyed Teas Etc’s Ceylon OP1, which took first prize in the Ceylon category in last year’s World Tea Expo. It was one of three Teas Etc teas to win a prize (you can get all three together in a special Championship pack).

So back to the question: What does it take to be a championship-winning tea?

I was expecting something unlike anything I’ve ever had before, and miles ahead of other Ceylon blacks I’ve tried. But it wasn’t. Instead, I was struck by how familiar this tea seemed.

The marks of quality in this tea are small and subtle. You notice it in the crisp aroma, which is earthy and almost peppery. You notice it in the tea’s liquor, coloured a bright, vivid shade of rusty orange. And finally you notice it in the drink itself, which is robust, balanced and full-bodied.

Ceylon OP1 is available from Teas Etc.

© Eric for Tea Finely Brewed, 2010. | Ceylon OP1 from Teas Etc | No comment |
Post categories: Black tea, Tea reviews
Post tags: Ceylon, Ceylon Tea, Teas Etc

“May you always have walls for the winds, a roof for the rain, tea beside the fire, laughter to cheer you, those you love near you and all your heart might desire.”

When Bec and I got married, we had those words printed on a card and placed on a table by the entrance to the winery. I still love them. There is something so homely and comforting about them — truly a wonderful benediction.

I am reminded of those words today, as it rains outside (a much needed rain) and I enjoy my morning tea ritual inside. Bec and Benny are asleep and I am trying a new tea: a Shui Xian oolong from Teas Etc.

Shui Xian comes from the Wuyi Mountains in Fujian Province, China. It’s about at the halfway point in the scale of oxidation — Michael Harney estimates that it’s around 40% oxidized. As a result, it produces a light orange brew that is darker than lesser oxidized oolongs but paler than the very full-bodied Formosa Oolong or other highly oxidized oolongs.

I prepare the tea in a gaiwan, allowing it about a minute to steep. Its aroma is striking. “This is new”, I think to myself. It’s smoky, with a strong suggestion of stonefruit, but I find it quite distinctive from any other oolong I’ve ever had.

For some reason, the aroma had made me expect that this tea would be quite astringent. It’s not. Instead I’m surprised at just how smooth it is. It is as if this tea is finely balanced, allowing its stonefruit flavours and smokiness to combine without either dominating. I drink it slowly, happily watching the rain fall outside. There is much to be thankful for.

Shiu Xian is available from Teas Etc for $8.95 for a 1 oz tin. It was supplied to me as a free sample.

© Eric for Tea Finely Brewed, 2009. | Shui Xian Oolong from Teas Etc | No comment |
Post categories: Oolong tea, Tea reviews
Post tags: Shui Xian, Teas Etc

Long-time readers of this blog will be well aware of my fondness for black teas. While I concede that black tea doesn’t — for the most part — have the depth or range you can find in other types of tea, I remain an avowed fan of our fully oxidized friend. This morning, with heavy eyes from too little sleep, I decided to turn my attention to one of the most well-regarded of all black teas: keemun.

Keemun is a region in Anhui Province, China, near the city of Huangshan and the Huang Shan Mountains (where one finds the teahouse I featured several weeks ago). It’s a temperate, wet area where tea grows amidst rain-soaked clouds and mist.

I have two Keemun teas to sample today: Narien Teas’ Keemun Imperial and Teas Etc’s Keemun. Note to the FTC and those readers who care: Both these teas were sent to me as free samples.

Keemun Imperial by Narien Teas

The name of this tea is surely a throwback to the days of the Tang, Song, Ming and Qing Dynasties, when Keemun was one of the Imperial Tribute Teas. The emperor of the day commanded an exclusive right over the Imperial Tribute teas, which were given him by loyal followers for whom the ‘gift’ was little more than a tax payment.

Narien’s Keemun is a smooth black tea with a slight smokiness. It has a buttery note that reminds me of Yunnan’s black teas, though the butteriness is less pronounced than I find in Yunnan blacks.

Keemun was the original English Breakfast tea, and as I enjoy Narien’s version, I can see why. Keemun is wonderfully smooth, with a refinement that sets it apart from most black teas. These days, most English Breakfast teas are blends of black teas from different regions (the organic English Breakfast tea I reviewed earlier this year combined teas from Assam, Darjeeling and Ceylon, for example), but dipping into Keemun gives me a new-found appreciation for what must once have been a most wonderful blend.

Narien Teas’ Keemun Imperial is not my favourite Keemun, nor is it Narien’s best tea (my vote for that still goes to their wonderful Earl Grey tea). While it is quite smooth, I find that it doesn’t have as much depth as I would like.

Keemun Imperial is available from Narien Teas for $11 for 4 oz.

Keemum by Teas Etc

Teas Etc have garnered quite a reputation over the past few years. Earlier this year, they won two gold prizes at the World Tea Expo for their Assam Reserve and Ceylon OP1. This Keemun didn’t win any prizes, but black tea certainly seems to be one of their strengths.

The first thing that I notice about this keemun as opposed to the Narien Teas’ version is the size and shape of the leaves. Whereas the Narien Teas Imperial Keemun is composed of small, mostly broken leaves, Teas Etc’s Keemun has some longer, twisted leaves. As it turns out, this has quite an impact on the tea’s flavour.

Teas Etc’s Keemun has a lighter colour than the Narien Keemun (though this could have something to do with the amount of dry leaf I used). It has a lovely aroma of fruit and smoke. Like Narien’s Keemun, this one is very smooth, but it has a rounder, more balanced mouthfeel. A lingering sweetness gives it fruity notes while there is a certain delicacy to it that is almost floral.

Keemun is available from Teas Etc for $5.95 for a 1 oz. tin.

© Eric for Tea Finely Brewed, 2009. | Keemun Double-Header: Keemun by Narien Teas and Teas Etc | 2 comments |
Post categories: Black tea, Tea reviews
Post tags: Keemum, Narien Teas, tea samplers, Teas Etc